
Bonanza Peak
Stevens Pass AreaBest Apr–May
Washington's highest non-volcanic peak, skied via the 55-degree Mary Green Glacier headwall from Holden Village.
About This Trail
Bonanza Peak stands as the highest non-volcanic summit in the Washington Cascades, and the ski descent of the Mary Green Glacier headwall ranks among the most serious single-day objectives in the state. The route climbs 8,000 feet from Holden Village up Railroad Creek, past Holden Lake, through Holden Pass, and onto the Mary Green Glacier before tackling the summit pyramid. The upper face hits 55 degrees, steep enough that every turn releases sluffs cascading into the void below.
The approach from Holden Village follows a long valley bottom before gaining the alpine zone. Post-holing through transitional snow is common on the lower trail sections in spring. Above Holden Lake, the terrain shifts to glacier travel with crevasse hazards and cliff bands guarding the summit. The crux requires digging steps and a trench into the 55-degree upper face, a section that demands ice axe and crampon proficiency even for strong skiers.
The descent rewards all that suffering: 3,000 feet of roller powder fields drop from the glacier back to Holden Lake, followed by the long runout to the village. This is a dawn-to-dark effort requiring peak fitness, mountaineering competence, and good timing on spring snow stability.
Forecast
Astronomy
Trail Conditions
Scorecard
Safety & Considerations
Persistent Hazards
- 55-degree headwall with persistent avalanche and sluff risk on descent
- Crevasses and seracs on the Mary Green Glacier
- Cliff bands near the summit requiring careful navigation
- Deep post-holing on lower approach in spring conditions
- Extreme remoteness with no quick evacuation from upper mountain
- Rapid weather changes at alpine elevations
Getting There
Holden Village access is seasonal and complex. In winter and spring, the typical approach involves a boat ride across Lake Chelan to Lucerne, then a bus or snowmobile to Holden Village. No standard trailhead parking. Plan logistics well in advance and confirm Holden Village access and accommodation.
From Holden Village, follow Railroad Creek Trail past Big Creek. The route splits toward Holden Lake, then ascends through Holden Pass onto the Mary Green Glacier. The upper route threads between cliff bands to reach the summit pyramid. Navigation on the glacier requires crevasse awareness and visibility for route-finding around seracs.
Pre-dawn start from Holden Village is mandatory. The 8,000 feet of gain and glacier travel require a full day of light. Aim to reach the summit before solar warming destabilizes the upper headwall. Budget 14-16 hours trailhead to trailhead.
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