Buckner Mountain

Buckner Mountain

North CascadesBest Apr–Jun

A committing multi-day glacier approach to one of Washington's highest summits, rewarding strong parties with a sustained north face descent.

Distance
Elevation
High Point
12h+Drive
moderateCrowds
ATES: ComplexGlacier TravelPoor in rain

About This Trail

Buckner Mountain stands as the 10th highest peak in Washington at 9,112 feet, and its north face offers one of the most committing ski descents in the North Cascades. The route approaches through Boston Basin via the Eldorado Trailhead on Cascade River Road, climbs through the steep couloir at Sharkfin Col requiring crampons and ice tools, then traverses the heavily crevassed Boston Glacier to reach the north face. This is a multi-day objective that demands glacier travel competence, routefinding skill, and comfort on sustained 40-degree terrain.

The Boston Glacier crossing is the crux of the approach, threading through 30-foot seracs and hidden crevasses that require roped travel and constant vigilance. Wind loading on the upper mountain creates slab avalanche potential, and conditions can deteriorate rapidly with 50 mph winds forcing nighttime descents by headlamp. The north face itself rewards patient climbers with a sustained descent through stable powder when conditions align.

Views from the upper mountain take in Goode, Logan, Sahale, and Eldorado, with the dramatic southern drop into Park Creek visible below. The surrounding terrain is as wild and remote as anything in the Lower 48. Expect to earn every turn on this one.

Forecast

Friday34°FChance Light Snow87% precip14-17 mph
Overnight30°FMostly Cloudy8% precip10-14 mph
Saturday30°FLight Snow then Snow Showers92% precip10-16 mph
Friday Night27°FLight Snow82% precip9-16 mph
Sunday36°FChance Light Snow then Partly Sunny30% precip10-15 mph
Saturday Night27°FChance Light Snow47% precip10-16 mph
Monday37°FChance Light Snow54% precip6-9 mph
Sunday Night28°FMostly Cloudy then Slight Chance Light Snow19% precip5-15 mph
Tuesday43°FRain And Snow Likely72% precip6-14 mph
Monday Night34°FRain And Snow Likely58% precip6-9 mph

Astronomy

MoonWaning Gibbous (70%)
Stargazingexcellent

Trail Conditions

Scorecard

vibrantBeautySummit panorama spanning the highest peaks of the North Cascades with the wild Park Creek drainage falling away to the south.
Type 2.5Fun
5/5Difficulty
5/5Wildness
5/5Exposure
5/5Reward
5/5Effort

Safety & Considerations

Persistent Hazards

  • Extensive crevasse fields on Boston Glacier
  • Hidden crevasses requiring roped travel
  • Slab avalanche potential from wind loading on upper mountain
  • Near-vertical ice at Sharkfin Col
  • Rapid weather deterioration with high winds
  • Remote location with no quick evacuation

Getting There

Google MapsApple Maps
Parking

Eldorado Trailhead at the end of Cascade River Road. Road may be gated in early season, adding extra miles on foot. No fee, limited parking.

Approach

Follow the Boston Basin trail through low valley forest (the hardest part in poor conditions), then gain the alpine via Quien Sabe Glacier to Sharkfin Col. The col requires crampons and ice tools for a near-vertical step. Cross Boston Glacier roped up, navigating around seracs and crevasse fields. Plan for a high camp below the north face.

Timing

Start the summit push well before dawn to hit the north face in stable morning conditions. Allow a full second day for the summit bid and descent. Budget extra time for glacier navigation.

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