Bonanza Peak
Central CascadesBest Jul–Sep
Washington's highest non-volcanic peak, a remote Class 4 scramble above Lake Chelan with glacier travel and massive vertical gain.
About This Trail
Bonanza Peak stands at 9,511 feet, the tallest non-volcanic summit in Washington State. The peak rises above the old mining village of Holden, accessible only by boat or float plane across Lake Chelan. That remoteness sets the tone: everything about this climb requires planning, commitment, and fitness.
The standard route follows Railroad Creek from Holden Village to the Mary Green Glacier on Bonanza's north side. The glacier approach gives way to Class 4 scrambling on exposed rock near the summit. Total elevation gain exceeds 6,000 feet over 14 miles round trip, and most parties log 18 to 21 hours car-to-car (or boat-to-boat). Strong parties do it in a single push from Holden campground. Others set a high camp and break it into two days.
The Mary Green Glacier requires rope teams, crampons, and crevasse rescue skills through mid-summer. Above the glacier, the summit scramble crosses exposed ledges and loose rock where a fall carries serious consequences. Snow lingers on the upper mountain well into August. Bugs in the lower valley can be fierce in July. The reward for all that effort is a summit that overlooks the entire Central Cascades, from Glacier Peak to the Stuart Range, with Lake Chelan glinting far below.
Astronomy
Trail Conditions
“Group of 4 summited Bonanza on 7/31 via Mary Green glacier on a single push from Holden Ballpark campground.”
Last report: Jul 30, 2022
Scorecard
Permits / Passes
Safety & Considerations
Today's Hazard
- Strong sun — sunscreen, hat, and sunglasses recommended
Persistent Hazards
- Class 4 scrambling with significant exposure
- glacier travel with crevasse hazard on Mary Green Glacier
- loose rock on summit approach
- extreme remoteness with ferry-dependent access
- snow on upper route into August
Getting There
Park at Fields Point Landing on Lake Chelan or in the town of Chelan. Take the Lady of the Lake ferry to Lucerne. No drive-in trailhead access. Northwest Forest Pass required.
Take the Lady of the Lake ferry from Chelan to Lucerne, then the shuttle bus to Holden Village. From Holden, follow Railroad Creek Trail toward the Mary Green Glacier. The glacier approach requires route-finding through moraine and onto the ice before the final scramble.
Single-push parties leave Holden well before dawn, targeting 18 to 21 hours round trip. Two-day parties set high camp above the glacier. Check the Lady of the Lake ferry schedule carefully; missing the boat means an extra night.
Recent Reports
Group of 4 summited Bonanza on 7/31 via Mary Green glacier on a single push from Holden Ballpark campground. Around 6k ft gain over 14mi in 21h.
This was a 2. 5-day / 2-night trip from Field's Point Landing to the summit of Bonanza Peak on Jun 21-23, 2019.
Distance: 14. 8 mi.
Similar Hikes
